Specifying Glass for a Table Top

tempered or untempered glass? Furniture makers exchange views. June 20, 2005

Question
I have recently been asked by someone to add a protective glass cover on a veneered table top. Does anyone have experience with this? I’m not sure if the glass will cause any problems or not? I have a thought that the lack of air circulation or sweating might be a problem? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Forum Responses
(Furniture Making Forum)
From contributor P:
I don’t think that putting the glass directly onto the surface will cause any harm. For my money, I'd bet that it would be no different than if you built a 2-piece hutch and put the upper unit base directly on top of a veneered lower unit. The glass will also help to hold the surface flat so there should be no warp or veneer lifting issues. Glass by itself will not cause wood to sweat.

Adding anything between the glass and the surface is a sure way to break the glass. Glass absolutely does not flex - it breaks. Tempered glass explodes into little pieces when it breaks due to flex.

From contributor R:
I would not use tempered glass at all. The only reason you use tempered glass on anything is to protect a person from getting cut by a large piece falling on them.

I would not use tempered glass at all. The only reason you use tempered glass on anything is to protect a person from getting cut by a large piece falling on them.

Tempered glass is too brittle and it will break if someone hits it with a drinking glass too hard or bangs a ring on it. Un-tempered glass will flex, and I would recommend putting felt pads around the edge to support it and keep it off the wood surface.

From contributor W:

I made a 54" diamond 1/4" plate glass top made for a new Teak dining table a while back. This top over the years has acquired numerous small chips around the edge and on the corners of the curved leaves, but they haven’t affected the use or function of it.

I made a 54" diamond 1/4" plate glass top made for a new Teak dining table a while back. This top over the years has acquired numerous small chips around the edge and on the corners of the curved leaves, but they haven’t affected the use or function of it.

I would not temper the glass. If it was tempered, each one of the minor chips may have ended up as a complete crumbling of the glass.

From contributor T:
Laminated glass would ease the safety concerns, but the edge does not have a very nice look to it. I would suggest looking into using plate glass, regardless of the application. You can simply add a clear or tinted film to the bottom or back side, which will hold it together in case of upset.

From contributor H:
I think that most of the reasons for having pads has to do with the glass not sticking to the top, rather than having an air gap. I've actually had something come into the shop where the glass was completely stuck to the finish. I'm guessing either something got on the top, or the sun softened the finish and the glass sunk into it. You can get discoloring under the pads if they're never moved though, so I guess there's no perfect solution.

From contributor J:
For tables the glass could be either tempered or standard glass, as long as the edge of the glass is held back from the edge of the top for sideways impacts. Dropped items shouldn't be a hazard unless the top is not solid across surface. Areas like upper cabinets would need a proper thickness with the possibility of a laminate in-between for shard retention-building facades.

Laminated glass would ease the safety concerns, but the edge does not have a very nice look to it. I would suggest looking into using plate glass, regardless of the application. You can simply add a clear or tinted film to the bottom or back side, which will hold it together in case of upset.I think that most of the reasons for having pads has to do with the glass not sticking to the top, rather than having an air gap. I've actually had something come into the shop where the glass was completely stuck to the finish. I'm guessing either something got on the top, or the sun softened the finish and the glass sunk into it. You can get discoloring under the pads if they're never moved though, so I guess there's no perfect solution.For tables the glass could be either tempered or standard glass, as long as the edge of the glass is held back from the edge of the top for sideways impacts. Dropped items shouldn't be a hazard unless the top is not solid across surface. Areas like upper cabinets would need a proper thickness with the possibility of a laminate in-between for shard retention-building facades.

The shape and quantity of clear pads between surface and glass is vital. Wide and thin is my choice. A general rule for perimeters is 1 pad for every 12" and inside area 1 for every 4 square feet. Also, it is of top priority to let the finish cure for at least 1 month before glass is installed.

From contributor S:
I do a lot of built-in desks and work centers, and I like to cover the tops in 1/4' glass. I don't use tempered glass - cost being the main concern, and the lack of need being secondary. The spacers are designed to keep the glass from sliding on the top. I don't use spacers, instead I prefer to recess the glass top, usually with a band of contrasting grain or species.

The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment).

I do a lot of built-in desks and work centers, and I like to cover the tops in 1/4' glass. I don't use tempered glass - cost being the main concern, and the lack of need being secondary. The spacers are designed to keep the glass from sliding on the top. I don't use spacers, instead I prefer to recess the glass top, usually with a band of contrasting grain or species.

Comment from contributor E:
I used quarter inch regular glass and stabilized it with rubber patches (the ones used on bicycle tires). On dark wood this works perfectly.

How to Choose a Glass Table Top for Your Dining Table

A glass table top is preferable for a dining table, as it makes the dining room larger and brighter, makes cleaning a breeze, and protects the wooden table without losing its classic elegance. It is also easy to replace the glass top if it breaks or gets scratched. So, how do you choose a glass table top for your dining area? Well, for that, you should consider the following factors:

Size and Weight of Glass Table Top

The size and weight of your glass table top should be in line with the size and weight of the table base. For instance, if the weight of the glass top is more than that of the base, it is likely to be less flexible or not easily moveable with the base.

Similarly, the size should not be much more than the base; otherwise, it may look odd or stumble. The table top size also directly affects the number of seats  around the table. The relation is directly proportional. The size will vary for a 4 seater table, 6 seater table, and 10 seater table. Thus, you should also consider the number of seats.

Glass Table Top Shape

The shape of a glass table top is an important factor to consider. You should choose the shape that best fits the base or legs. Glass table tops are available in square, rectangle, round, oval, racetrack oval, hexagon and even in kidney-like shapes.

Sharing many similarities, square and rectangle shapes seem to be popular. The oval or rectangular one is ideal for having much dining room seating. The oval or round shape is chosen to create more space, provide an attractive appearance, and ensure easy movability around. A round or square shape is ideal for accommodating a small group that can then interact better during dinner. 

A round top is chosen mostly by those who wish to use it for parties or fun gatherings. You can even choose a custom cut glass to get the glass top as per your desired shape and size. In short, a glass table top shape should not be only about the appearance but also about the best fit.

The shape is usually determined by the table’s shape, base underneath the glass, number of seaters, and/or the dining room layout.

Number of Seaters

Before going ahead to choose a glass table top, you should consider the number of people who would be sitting around the table. It is wise to choose a little larger top than a normal one if you expect guests to visit your home frequently.

Generally, if the table top shape is round it can be used in a 4 seater or 6 seater dining tables, 4 people can easily fit if the table size is 36" to 50" inches in diameter, 6 people can fit around 46" to 66" inches diameter table, and 8 to 10 seaters at a table measuring 66 inches dia. If the table top is square, a measure of one side of glass from 28 to 48 inches can accommodate 4 seats, 48 to 60 inches (one side) ideal for 6 to 8 seaters, and more than 60” suitable for 12 seaters.

In case of a rectangular shape, a table of 36"x48" inches to 42"x78" inches can accommodate 6 people, a table of 44"x84" inches can fit 10 people, and 48"x96" inches for up to 16 people. If the shape is oval or racetrack oval, 6 people easily fit around a table of 36"x60" to 42"x72" inches, 10 around a table of 44"x84" inches, and 14 around a table of 48"x96" inches.

Other Physical Aspects

 

For Dining table with only Glass as table top
(Glass fixed on top of wooden or metal frame

For Dining table with wooden table top with
Glass as extra protection

4 Seater table

8mm +

6mm / 8mm

6 Seater table

10mm +

8 mm

8 Seater table

12mm +

8 mm +

This table shows recommended glass thickness for dining table. Toughened glass have more strength and more heat resistant compered to standard annealed glass.

Your dining table’s glass top must be such that it introduces an eye-catching elegance to its base. For this, you need to consider its thickness, polish, and color apart from the shape.

A thinner glass is known to give a more delicate and sophisticated look, while a thicker one is admired for its durability and heavy use. In case of a wooden dining table, a clear glass top with lesser thickness of 6 or 8mm preferably tempered is fine as compared to a top with metal or wooden frame. Such a glass should have thickness of 12mm and preferably tempered for having a stronger table, especially if you have kids at home. Grey / bronze of clear glass can be considered for table top glass fixed on frame base considering the colour and texture of the base.

Otherwise, a thicker glass top is preferable. When it comes to color, a calm option is always preferred. In short, the color, finish, and thickness should suit your needs and be in line with the décor of the dining room.